2009
The Gaviota Coast is considered the last remaining pristine stretch of coastline in Southern California, largely due to the inability for the public to access it. Government Point is an exclusive and secluded surfing heaven, just north of Hollister Ranch on the Gaviota Coast. The only legal ways to get to Government Point is by invitation from a land owner, by boat, or by trekking miles of hazardous conditions at low tide from either the Gaviota or Jalama. Fortunately for the public, the State of California is a “wetsand” state, which means that everything below the “mean high tide line” is public property, excluding military bases.
In an effort to keep this article 100% legal, this Point Conception kayaking adventure begins below the mean high tide line at Government Point. Hey, how you get there is your business. How I got there, is mine.
Point Conception is the "Cape of California" where the coast turns from east/west to north/south and the marine and terrestrial ecosystems dramatically change. Sailors are warned of its presence by a lighthouse.. Its wild unpredictable wind and current draws comparisons to Cape Horn. Point Conception is notorious for dangerous wind and seas no matter what the waters and winds are doing nearby.
My kayaking partner and I waited for a break in the surf to launch, and paddled out to sea, escaping the sheltered waters of Governments, making our way to the treacherous conditions surrounding Point Conception. As we neared the Point, the glassy waters gave way to perilous white caps, and the gentle breeze became a howling wind challenging our every paddle. The turbulent waters and windy conditions around the point, was no match for our two man kayak. Lurching over waves threatening to break on top of us at any moment, was a humbling experience.
“Paddle! Paddle! Paddle!” My partner shouted, as we battled against the wind, water, and current to round the Point. If the treacherous conditions weren’t motivation enough, the pungent smell of crude oil, and large round patches of oil floating on the water’s surface, made capsizing not an option.
Once successfully on the north side of the Point, the current and winds calmed enough for us to catch our breath before kayaking through “the fork”, a giant rock perched out of the sea, north of Conception. Timing is essential, since the current causes the waves to rise and fall about 10 feet through the center. My partner frantically yelling once again, “Paddle! Paddle! Paddle!” as we rode a wave straight through the narrow fork.
We are heading home! With the wind at our back’s, paddling home was a breeze.
Alongside the dramatic cliffs, just south of Point Conception, we discovered a narrow entrance to a tiny concealed cove, and while contemplating whether or not to venture inside, a monstrous wave sent us darting through the tiny opening into a highly populated seal rockery. As we headed straight for masses of resting seals, they quickly scattered from the tiny beach, jumping into the water and out of our path. Hundreds of seal heads were bobbing in and out of the water, trying to figure out what we were doing there… if seals had a middle finger, they would have used it. In fact, I think I saw a couple flippers sticking up. The overwhelming stench of seal poop, and fear of seals rising up against the uninvited guests caused us to paddle out of the rockery as quickly as we entered.
Paddling back along the shoreline to Government Point at break neck speed, we couldn’t resist using our kayak as a surf board. We waited for the perfect set and rode the famous, coveted waves onto the beach..
We congratulated ourselves with a secluded ocean front picnic on one of the last unspoiled beaches in Southern California with chilled Chardonnay and tasty snacks.. below the mean high tide, of course.