2005
On November 8th, I will be traveling to Kano, Nigeria to administer polio vaccinations along with volunteers from World Heath Organization, UNICEF, and Rotary International. Eradicating polio by 2005 has been a plan of the World Heath Organization, Rotary and UNICEF for over a decade. There are only a handful of countries left in the world that are still affected by the disease, including Nigeria. Half of all documented polio cases in 2003 were in Northern Nigeria and tragically, Muslim leaders believed that the vaccine administered was actually an anti-fertility drug used to sterilize the population. The national vaccination program was suspended in several states in August of 2003, and the disease nearly quintupled in frequency. By May of 2004, polio was reported to have spread from there to several other African nations which had previously been declared polio-free. Finally the government has agreed to allow polio vaccinations back into the state, as long as they are made in Indonesia, not America, as before.
Kano, Nigeria, is governed by Sharia Law (Islamic law). Women's rights are limited and human rights violations run rampant. I will be helping local committees plan and participate in supplemental immunization activities on a village by village basis. Immunization teams, comprising local vaccinators and village or wards heads acting as local guides, visit houses and immunize children under five years of age. It should be an interesting couple of weeks.
11/8
I should be flying out of LAX today, headed to Amsterdam for a wild night of debauchery with my fellow Rotarians, before we join the other UNICEF, WHO, and Rotary International volunteers in Kano, Nigeria to administer polio vaccinations. But alas, the office of the Nigerian Consulate closed for the last week of Ramadan and didn’t bother to process my visa in time for my flight. Supposedly, the visa will arrive by FedEx tomorrow morning, but at this point, I am not going to hold my breath. Speaking of breath, a couple days ago I also came down with a nasty cold/infection/virus and am now chalk full of both malarone (malaria pills) and antibiotics. But don’t fret; my doctor assures me that it will not affect my ability to administer vaccinations now that I am on antibiotics. The burka will come in hand. I will keep my face cloth on at all times.
11/9
Wednesday’s flight was 'grossly overbooked' so now I am flying out on Saturday. I arrive in Kano, Nigeria at 11:35 at night. I’m gonna need to wear some body armor underneath my burka. Africa is not a friendly place at night.
11/14
My journey to Kano, Nigeria took 24 hours. I crossed 9 time zones, ate 5 disgusting airplane meals, slept only 2 hours, and was forced to sit through ‘Must Love Dogs’, but I finally landed in Kano Airport at 11:30om Sunday night. Thankfully, as I was explaining to Nigerian Airport Security why I didn’t have anyone to receive me and needed to arrange transportation, I spotted a bright yellow Rotary jacket worn by a lovely Nigerian doctor named Ade. We hopped in his Mercedes and arrived safely to The Prince Hotel. I entered my room to find I had my very own toilet! Jackpot. Was I really in Africa? Where was the fly infested ditch?
Immunizations started at 6:30am Monday morning. I was assigned to a team of 4 other American volunteers escorted by Nigerian Rotarians. We scoured the streets and schools of Kano, immunizing every child under 5 without a black pinky nail, the mark of immunization. Kano is, without question, the biggest blockade facing the global eradication of polio. More than ¾ of Nigerian polio cases occur in Kano. Population, sanitation, corruption, politics, and religion are all major factors in its inability to combat the virus.
Kano has none of the aesthetic beauty I have come to associate with Africa. At first glance it seems to be the city that God forgot; the streets are inundated with raw sewage, dilapidated shacks and makeshift housing line the streets, and the air reeks of exhaust and filth. Kano is the largest city in Northern Nigeria and is the oldest city in all of West Africa. 99% of its 7 million plus inhabitants are Muslim. In 2000, Kano became one of 12 states in Nigeria to be governed by Shariah law. Shariah law is described as a code of conduct for every Muslim. It regulates personal hygiene, dress, recreation, diet, sexual conduct, and child rearing. It also prescribes specific rules for prayer, fasting, and many other religious matters. Shariah law also provides flogging for gambling, and drinking alcohol, amputations for theft, stoning for adultery and death for murder.
Inspiration for Shariah law was the person of the prophet, 'the perfect man'. By imitating the smallest details of his external life, Muslims hoped to be able to acquire his interior attitude of perfect surrender to God. It is meant to create a just society where law and people live in harmony. Shariah in Kano is only intended to be enforced to Muslims but its mere presence has driven many Christians to relocate and has incited numerous religious riots since its introduction.
That being said, this city is one of the most extraordinary and fascinating I’ve traveled to. The beauty of Kano is found in the people, the culture, and the potential this community has for a prosperous future.
11/16 Brown Bread
This morning at breakfast the waiter asked me ‘Madame, would you like bread or croissant’? I asked if they had wheat bread. He looked puzzled so I rephrased my question ‘do you have brown bread’? ‘Ah, yes’ he replied. This hotel is top notch. Not only does it have real toilets with toilet paper, but also wheat toast. 5 star livin’ in Kano. After about 15 minutes, everyone else had received their meals, I inquired after my brown bread. He returned shortly, ‘here you go Madame, brown bread’ it was a basket of burnt toast. ;)
11/16 Telemarketing, Nigerian style…
I can’t write about Nigeria without addressing the infamous Nigerian email scam, or 419 offences, as they are known in Nigeria. Those opportunistic letters requesting you send bank account information so the Royal Bank of Nigeria or Prince Obajuago of Lagos can deposit 20,000,000 into your account. I have no idea how effective those fraudulent emails are but a new wave of scams is sure to make its way to the States very soon. The newest trend in Nigerian scams is a phone call alerting the victim that their child or relative was just in a terrible car accident and needs to undergo emergency surgery. Before the hospital can operate they must have credit card or bank account information given to them over the phone. Apparently these are infinitely more effective and I’m sure will be the next step in 419 fraud via telemarketing…
11/17 Hadiza
I wore my new Muslim robe and head scarf today during our visits to a local hospital, orphanage, ‘old peoples home’, and polio victims association. One of the women nicknamed me Hadiza, one of Muhammad’s daughters. I am told if I wear my Muslim robe and scarf when I walk around town alone, I shouldn’t have any problems as everyone will think I am a Saudi Arabian Muslim. hehehe
11/18
Why Polio is the question on everyone's minds when AIDS, malaria, VVF, poverty, education, clean water, corruption, equal rights, religious persecution are all issues debilitating Nigeria. The majority of Polio cases do not result in death like AIDS and malnutrition and there are very few cases compared to other infectious diseases. Many people think the disease is no longer a major problem since there are very few cases worldwide; 1,255 cases reported in 2004, compared to 350,000 cases in 1988. Unfortunately, eradication is most difficult when you reach the home stretch because only a small portion of the population is affected by the problem. 25 years ago, Rotary, WHO, and UNICEF set a goal to eradicate Polio by 2005. We are 99% there. Once this goal is achieved, Polio will be the second disease in the world eradicated after Small Pox. It has been challenging to convince Nigerians that once Polio is eliminated all of the money used to fight polio will be freed up to fight other causes. My fellow Rotarians keep saying their motives are that their own children and grandchildren aren't safe until the disease is eradicated. I don't buy it and I don't think the majority of Nigerians buy it either. Our kids are not in danger of getting Polio since they are vaccinated and on the other side of the world. I don't see the personal danger. Why can't we admit that our motives are more altruistic? Ridding the world of Polio is the right thing to do. It is our responsibility to ensure that everyone has the same rights to life that we do. I have absolutely no stake in the eradication of Polio, other than my sense of responsibility to ensure that everyone get the same rights to life that I have.
11/18
Home Sweet Home I am staying at Tourist Camp, a hostel run my Muslims in the center of town. It is much cheaper than the expat hotels that I have been advised (begged) to stay in, and it will expose me to real life in Kano. By American standards, it's a piece of shit. So far, I am the only woman I've seen on the premises. Women, in the Muslim culture in Kano, aren't really allowed out of the house, except for special occasions. There is no generator and the electricity shuts off at night and sporadically throughout the day. Today I went to the market and stocked up on candles and a lighter. I made candle holders out of water bottle tops and a candelabra out of an old cd. Just call me McGyver. My room is very simple. There is a small bathroom, with toilet, but the water doesn't work so I can't take a shower or flush the toilet and there is no light, which is probably a good thing. But I am told that it is very safe, and that's really all I care about.
11/19
You hear about religious clashes and religious wars on the news but to actually live amongst it is an eye-opening experience. Kano is 99% Muslim. The 1% Christians live in 'Sabon Gari' which means foreigners town in Hausa. 'Sabon Gari' is the slum of Kano. It's the only place you can get a drink and is also home to most of the prostitutes and is overall a pretty dangerous place. Not just because it overflows with debauchery but because every time Muslims are persecuted in other parts of Nigeria or even other parts of the world, Muslims take their frustrations and anger out on those in Sabon Gari. Since Shariah law was implemented in 2000, the Christians have been relegated to this small section of town. The number of riots, protests, and act of religious violence are far too numerous to count. After talking with many Muslims and Christians, I can say without hesitation, there is no end in sight. Muslims distrust of Christians and the western world is a major factor in our inability to eradicate polio in Kano. In 2003, the Emir's daughter, after being fired from both USAID and WHO, started a rumor that the vaccinations were actually antifertility drugs used to annihilate the Muslim population in Nigeria. Muslim clerics were quick to back up her story and vaccinations were quickly suspended in Kano. In 2004, the vaccinations were reinstated but not before Polio spread to 8 neighboring African countries. Even now, most of the Muslim homes visited for NID would not allow their children to be immunized. Most of the Nigerian Rotarians are Christian. They perceive the Kano Muslims as backwards, archaic, and corrupt. They have just as much prejudice and venom towards Muslims as Muslims have for Christians. The Rotarians who are most afraid for me, who have begged me to leave Kano, to stay in one of the nice hotels, who implore me to not walk around the streets without an escort are all Christians from the south. When I speak to Muslims who live in Kano, they tell me that I'm safe, that there is no problem and that people will generally mind their own business, which I've found to be true so far. I've been hassled less here than any other third world country I've traveled to. If anything, people are just curious to know what the hell I'm doing here...
11/19 Wedding Crasher
Last night as I was laying in bed, reading by candlelight, I heard loud music and partying going on outside.
I had to check it out, so I put my veil on and ventured out to find the source of all the merriment. It was a Nigerian Muslim wedding reception! I lurked behind the entrance and was invited to join the festivities. I've never been one to pass up a party so I accepted the offer. I was told to sit wherever I liked, so I chose the first seat I saw. After a few minutes I realized all the women were on one side of the stage and the men were on the other... guess where I was seated... with all the men! Ooops. I was too scared to move, since people were staring at me more than the wedding party. But the kids all ran to me like I was part of the entertainment, so I played with them until they got bored with me, then watched the women dance around the stage while the men talked amongst themselves. After a couple hours, I decided to make an exit. It was just too weird and I didn't want to outstay my welcome.
11/20
Its day 3 of no water. I think I'm starting to stink.
This afternoon on the street I was approached by a Muslim man. He was telling me all these nasty things he has heard about Americans and Rotary; we are trying to eliminate the Muslim population in Nigeria, Rotarians are a secret society like the mafia, Americans hate Nigerians. I started laughing and suggested we make a deal.. I wouldn't believe any of the nasty rumors I hear about Muslims and Kano, if he wouldn't believe any of the nasty things he hears about America and Rotary. Instead we would just respect each other and think the best of one another. We shook hands and that was that...
VVF Fistula is an enormous problem in Northern Nigeria. VVF occurs when a young girl, who has not fully matured, gives birth. It basically rips her apart leaving her unable to control her bladder and bowel movements. In the Muslim culture, women are of marrying age as soon as they have their period, which can be as young as 10 or 11. They usually become one of four wives that a Muslim man can take as his property. The majority of young girls are quickly impregnated after marriage, causing VVF with delivery unless they get a cesarean section. After the girl gets VVF, she is usually divorced and ostracized from society. Her only option for survival is prostitution or living on the street. The man will then find another young girl to take her place and the cycle continues. Between 2,000 and 5,000 cases of VVF occur in Kano every year, depending on who you ask. It is difficult to get an accurate number since Muslim men don't want a male doctor to work on their wives, and very few Muslim women are allowed to be educated, let alone become doctors.
Today we visited a VVF hospital. It was made up of a few large rooms with dirty walls and floors, small makeshift beds with thrashed mattresses and soiled sheets. The beds were filled with young women/teenage patients wearing their normal clothes and a sheet. The medical doctor we met with said the procedure takes about 30 minutes, is usually very simple, and costs about $300.00. Doctors without borders and other NGO's have flown into Kano to train doctors and assist in getting the needed supplies but there is much more work needed to be done. The Nigerian government provides free prenatal care and delivery in an effort to curb the epidemic but the number of cases has not decreased. This is a problem that can not be solved without changing the Muslim culture. Even if there were enough funds to operate on every girl with VVF, they are still shunned from society and forced to live on the streets after the operation.
11/21
I just got back from an on-air morning interview on Freedom Radio; the only non government run radio station in Kano and the biggest in all of Nigeria, Niger, Chad, and Benin. I was the 'special' guest. Radio is extremely powerful in Africa, since a lot of people don't read, and it's a free way of getting information.
Unfortunately, you only have to look at the Rwandan genocide and the numerous religious riots in Kano and northern Nigeria, to know that radio, when misused, can incite horrific acts of violence. A Nigerian Rotarian escort was supposed to pick me up at 8am, but at 8:30 there was still no sign of him so I walked around the camp asking if anyone knew how to get to Freedom Radio. I met a guy from Abuja who offered to take me. The interview was AWESOME!! We debated Nigerian politics, American foreign policy, Polio, Rotary, the state of women in Kano, VVF, and the religious tension between Christians and Muslims. It was pretty incredible. As I was driving away with my Rotarian escort who finally arrived at the radio station, I heard the DJ pay me the best compliment... 'I just want to thank Kimberlinn again for coming to the station this morning. Kimberlinn is the real deal. She is genuinely here to be with us'... and he went on to say that I arrived to the station without escort and that I venture out every day on my own unlike most other westerners who confine themselves to the fancy hotels. I have yet been able to wipe the smile off my face. Almost every person I've come in contact with has said something about the interview. It's crazy. Strangers on the street have said ' ah, Kimberlinn you are the white woman on the radio this morning so nice to meet you, etc... The power of radio!
Tonight I am going to a prostitute village outside of Kano. My Rotarian escort that was supposed to pick me up this morning met me at Freedom Radio to take me back to Tourist Camp. I told him that I want to see the prostitute village and he said 'Madame that is better left to your imagination'. I told him that if he didn't want to take me I would just go on my own. He laughed and said 'I don't doubt that you will, I will take you tonight'.
11/22 Nigerian Red Light District
HOLY SHIT... Last night I went to Gadar, the prostitute village on the outskirts on Kano. I was escorted by 5 Big Nigerian Rotarians. We drove into the village at about 9pm... We were all speechless!! It was like an X-rated Nigerian version of Pirates of the Caribbean. This was the slum of the slums. The red light district of Kano. It was originally a truck stop that, over the years, grew into a village of prostitutes. 90% of Gadar's residents are women and 90% of the businesses are brothels. It was, without doubt, one of the craziest things I've ever experienced. I felt like I was in the wild wild west. I peeked into some of the brothels and saw women dancing on stages. Music was blasting from every window and the people on the street were pretty rough, most of them were smoking marijuana or drinking. The town is run by Muslim women, and in Kano, a place where women are hidden inside the home, that's pretty insane. There are no schools, medical offices, government buildings or police in Gadar. The men that fill up the streets at night are mostly truckers just passing through town or men from Kano looking for some lovin'. The prostitutes charge as little as 200 naira, which is less than $2.00. Condoms are non-existent; which means Gadar is a breeding ground for the spread of HIV in Africa. This is a project I am begging Kano Rotary groups to adopt. I am helping them put together a plan of action and hopefully we can offer these women opportunities for education and HIV prevention. As we drove away, we were all floored at what we had just witnessed. We all laughed at what the townies must have thought seeing a white women walk through the streets with 5 Big Nigerians surrounding her. When I asked them what the people were saying as we passed, they all said 'we have no idea, we don't speak their language'.
11/22
As I was sitting outside my hostel, waiting for Segun to come and get me to visit the Polio Victims Association, two nicely dressed men showed up in a very nice car and said they were sent by 'The Former Rotary International President' to make sure that I was safe and move me to a Rotarian homestay. I assured them that I was safe and comfortable and they requested that I go with them to see 'The Former RI President'. I asked them to wait for Segun, who was planning on taking me to 'The Former RI President' later that day. Segun showed up and we all went to 'The Former RI President's' office. Jonathan (as I know him), is treated like the President of Nigeria. Its crazy!!! We all sat in his office and talked for a long time about what I've been up to. He had just returned from South Africa and was surprised to hear that I was on the radio and venturing out all over town on my own. I told him about the Gadar village and asked why nothing was being done, 'It's a huge problem for Africa that a place like that exists. Something needs to be done about it and I think Rotary should be involved.' He thought about it for a moment and agreed. That started another hour long conversation on what should be done about Gadar. He got on the phone, called some people, and put together a meeting with about 10 people for later this evening to discuss what should be done. He is amazing!!! He also invited me to dinner with him tomorrow night. I am getting such an education from him. He and Rotary are changing Africa.
11.23
When Jonathan speaks, people take action! Last night was a full night of fun and education. First I went to Jonathan's house for a meeting about Gadar. There were 8 of us in attendance, including a representative from SWATCH, a local NGO who has been trying to get a project started in Gadar. At one time, SWATCH had the support of USAID to start a rehabilitation project but once the local government got wind of it they told USAID that SWATCH was actually empowering the sex workers so USAID halted the project funding. The government benefits from Gadar because each of the women pays income tax on her earnings, as well as some politicians and religious clerics being very good customers. Gadar is absolutely illegal according to Shariah law. Prostitution, drugs, and drinking are all against Shariah and Christian law, for that matter. It’s a disgrace that the local government allows this place to exist. Not only is it a detriment to Kano but it is a breeding ground for the spread of AIDS in West Africa. According to what was said last night, there are over 1,000 sex workers living in the village. Some of the girls are as young as 12 years old. Naturally, it is suspected that the majority of women have HIV; last week alone, 13 women died from what seems to be AIDS.
Jonathan thinks it should be fairly simple to get support from the Kano state government and he is going to use his lobbying power to make the government give its blessing to the project... which, of course, will entail bribery and kickbacks but otherwise the project will never get off the ground. We tossed around a lot of ideas and came up with a pretty solid plan of action. Today I have a meeting with SWATCH to go over all of the data they’ve collected and put together a project proposal. If we can educate these women, teach them HIV prevention, give them vocational training and implement a cooperative system of microcredit, I think we will see results in Gadar.
After the meeting we went to a traditional Nigerian meal of goat’s head and pepper soup. Yep, I ate a goat’s head and it was pretty damn tasty.
11.23
Its only 80 degrees this morning. The people of Kano are freezing. Everyone is wearing thick jackets and blankets, shivering as they walk down the street. People keep asking me if I’m not cold, insisting I take a blanket as well.
I am going to miss the hospitality and the political debates that take place in the internet café every day. Usually there are about 7 or 8 people in the café, using the internet and the BBC world news is always on, which incites passionate debates on the state of the world. Since my radio interview, I am now included in the discussions. I haven’t been able to pay for anything since my radio broadcast. Everywhere I go people are giving me things for free. Its wild. So this is what being a celebrity is like.. I may never come home. ;)
11.24
I spent the day with SWATCH, researching Gadar village. The more I learn about that place the crazier it gets.
Some facts about the village:
There are over 1,000 prostitutes operating in Gadar, making up 90% of the population. Many of them are as young as 12 years old.
13 women have recently died from what is believed to be AIDS. All of them were under the age of 18.
There are more than 2,000 patrons to Gadar every evening.
Most of the prostitutes are the product of forced marriages at a young age. Other times they are lured into the village by ‘Chairladies’, restaurateurs who recruit young ladies by offering them restaurant jobs. The very young ones are usually the result of human trafficking from neighboring countries and states within Nigeria.
Gadar is run by a man named Sarkin Bariki aka ‘The Gatekeeper’. He is the guardian of all the sex workers and registers them into the community. Rumor is that registration involves having sex with him. He makes his money by getting kickbacks from the customers. He also protects the women and bails them out of prison if need be.
Patrons of Gadar are from all walks of life; truck drivers, politicians, businessmen, farmers, etc…
The Gatekeeper is in favor of AIDS education and will allow a project to be started there as long as he is getting paid as well, same goes for the Village Ward and City Head.
Abortion is also a big problem. The sex workers usually do the abortions themselves or visit the local witchdoctor.
Kano State Government publicly condemns the community but secretly is in favor because they receive income tax from the women’s earnings as well as patronize the city themselves.
After my time with SWATCH, Jonathan hosted a dinner in my honor at a very fancy Chinese restaurant. When he arrived, the entire restaurant rose to welcome him. He was dressed in a traditional Nigerian robe signifying a King. A member of Kano State Government was also in attendance to assure the government’s support on the Gadar project. We spent the evening discussing the future of Gadar, my visit to Nigeria, and various world affairs. What an honor it was, a dinner I will never forget!! Once the dinner ended, we went to a ‘joint’ in NoMan’s land to watch the Arsenal game and then off to Chief’s house to listen to traditional Nigerian music.
11/24
Today is Thursday, Thanksgiving, my last day in Kano before I go back home to California. I can’t believe I have only been here for two weeks. Its amazing how much can be accomplished in such a short time. I’m afraid I’ll feel rather useless when I get home, like my day to day life is meaningless compared to what I have been doing here. But it will be nice to return to all the luxuries I take for granted; water, electricity, clean air, clean toilets that flush, sushi, high speed internet, just to name a few...
The Gadar project seems to be getting attention from the powers that be. I was escorted to the airport by a Kano State Government Official that promised me both the Governor’s and the Emir’s stamp of approval. I should get an answer by the end of the week, which in African time means by the end of December…
11/27
I’m home. I turned on CNN and found out that Nick and Jessica are separated. It’s a shame that the majority of people in Kano may not be able to read or write, but they know more about what’s going in the world than most Americans. They know because they pay attention to BBC World news instead of the day to day life of Brad and Angelina, or Paris vs. Nicole. But who am I kidding, I’m still hoping Mtv announces a season three of Laguna Beach. ;)